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You can get Nintendo Switch controllers that mimic Nintendo and Sega controllers from the 8-bit era (Nintendo Entertainment System) all the way to the 128-bit era (Nintendo GameCube). Next are retro controllers, whose form factors recall consoles of the past.
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Even PC gamepads tend to mimic many of the design elements of these two controllers and Nintendo Switch pro-style controllers carry on that tradition. These controllers are similar in design to the PlayStation and Xbox controllers that have become the standard form factor over the past 10 years. There are four main types of secondary Nintendo Switch controllers. What are my options when it comes to extra Nintendo Switch controllers?
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The best way to avoid drift developing in Joy-Cons is to use them as infrequently as possible, meaning that a secondary controller is preferable when the Switch is docked and connected to your TV both for superior control, and to preserve the Joy-Cons for use in handheld mode. Whichever happens to be the case with Joy-Cons, drift seems to occur more often than with competitors’ first-party controllers (DualShock/DualSense for the Playstation and the Xbox Wireless Controller). Additionally, the analog sticks on the Joy-Con have a tendency to develop a problem known as “drift.” Drift happens to almost any analog control stick and it is an issue wherein the “neutral” position of the stick is either no longer neutral because of mechanical wear and tear or no longer read as neutral because of digital issues within the circuitry of the controller. However, as a separated controller, either individually or docked together in the included Switch grip, the Joy-Cons really can’t rise above “fine.” The buttons are very small and the directional pad (d-pad) especially does not respond particularly well. For many games, this set-up is relatively comfortable and ergonomic. The standard Joy-Cons that come packaged with the Nintendo Switch are meant to slot into the sides of the Switch screen for split use when in handheld mode.